New scent releases!

 
We’ve got a new Pixie Puff, a new ‘Kin joins the family, plus I’m rolling out the new vibe check collection & February’s moth.
 
Dusk Cherry Puff: Tahitian vanilla cream, burnt sugar fairy floss, glacé dusk cherries, moonflower vines & tiare flowers (hi-femme)
 
The olfactive profile is creamy, smoky, fruity, and tropical, kind of in that order of appearance. The Tahitian vanilla opens with a dense & rich character, followed by a smoky caramelized sugar. The cherry note is somewhere between a pink cherry and a black cherry, glowing against the dark backdrop of slightly green, tropical florals. It's not listed as a note, but atlas cedar (different from most cedars - it's dark, broody, and creamy rather than dry/woody) helps provide some scaffolding and darkens the scent. This is a permanent scent, but may be added to the spring & summer rotation going forward. I love cherry, but I wanted something different from the usual woodsy tobacco/tonka combinations that I usually see, so while I wouldn't call this a "light" fragrance, I think the tropical vibe will make it feel springy/summery to most people.
 
Dozykin: Hushkin's ‘blue’ lavender with golden amber and vanilla bean custard (agender)
 
The olfactive profile starts with floral, herbal lavender but transitions to become more and more gourmand as it warms up, ending with a rich and caramelized golden vanilla. The lavender is high in linalyl acetate (a marker of high quality) and menthol but lower in coumarins, making it clean and floral and avoiding the foamy barbershop drydown inherent to many lavenders.
 
 
 the vibe check collection 
 
The vibe check collection is a permanent concept collection based on visual aesthetics and internet culture. The scents may be put on a seasonal rotation in the future. We’re kicking off the collection with two perfumes: 
 
paper moon: galbanum, bitter almond, angelica root & orris root, white lilac, gardenia, pointe shoes, paper (premium fragrance) (hi-femme)
 
The olfactive profile is dry, floral, vegetal, and atmospheric. The color I get as an aesthete is powder white and dusky cornflower blue. For anyone unfamiliar with angelic root and orris root, they both have a waxy lipstick quality to them, while the former is more green/herbal and the latter is more dry/woody. The combo of lipstick, dry greens, heady florals & atmospheric notes feels romantic and vintage with a strange edge to it.
 
babygirl: motor oil, Indonesian & Bourbon vetiver, leather, Virginia cedarwood, warm marshmallow, and ironing board musk (hi-masc leaning lo-masc).
 
The olfactive profile is a little smoky and woodsy with a gourmand slant, with the marshmallow not being as warm or sugary as Scruffkin. It’s v. dudely, but surprisingly cozy and soft once you peek under the hood, just like our favorite babygirls (Pedro is my babygirl of choice but I love all babygirls). This  cedarwood is definitely the dry/hardware store kind. It's noticeable as a backbone to the scent, but it shouldn’t be overwhelming, providing a counterbalance to the warm gooeyness of the marshmallow/motor oil combo. Indonesian vetiver is quite smoky and dry while the Bourbon vetiver is more buttery and nutty, so the vetivers provide a good transition between the motor oil, marshmallow, and cedarwood. There's a burnt coffee note in here that comes out more on fabric than skin, in my experience. 
 
february's moth

 

February's moth is Opisthograptis luteolata, aka the Brimstone Moth.

 

notes: wasabi, yuzu, tomato leaf, perilla leaf, patchouli, ambrain & ambrarome, hiba cedarwood, hinoki, Indonesian vetiver, seaweed, and vegan ambergris (premium fragrance)(i'll say hi-masc with a caveat)

 

The olfactive profile is a super smoky, animalic chypre with green overtones, sulfuric notes, and a flinty mineralic drydown. Definitely an acquired taste. The caveat to the gendering here is that chypres are strange beasts and deeply polarizing, so they fly in the face of standard marketing.

 

This isn't animalic in a super traditional way - tonkin musk, civet, and castoreum are more traditional, and while this has a small amount of vegan castoreum, the animalism mostly comes from the ambrarome and vegan ambergris. Ambrain and ambrarome are both fractions of labdanum, with the latter having a strong indole-like quality to it. Labdanum fractions are endlessly fascinating to me because labdanum was found to contain ambrein, a molecule also found in ambergris. Labdanum had been used as an ambergris replacer since I think the 1600s or so? At least? So it was super interesting that they discovered the similarities when subjecting ambergris to GCMS analysis in the 20th century - it lead to advances in labdanum extractions as well as the invention of ambroxan. Anyway, the history of labdanum and its role as an ambergris replacer (and how this kind of plays into the golden amber/white amber split that’s so common in indie perfumery) is quite fascinating, but I’ll shut up about it now. 

 

Brimstone Moth’s quantities are limited at the moment due to running out of a material unexpectedly, but I have some on the way, so if it runs out soon it should be restocked before the end of February.

 

(Photo © entomart via Wikimedia commons)
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